Kenzo (brand)
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Company type | Société Anonyme / Subsidiary of public company |
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Industry | Fashion |
Founded | 1970 |
Founder | Kenzo Takada |
Headquarters | , |
Key people | Nigo (Artistic Director) |
Owner | LVMH |
Website | www |
Footnotes / references [1] |
Kenzo (stylized as KENZO PARIS) is a French luxury fashion house founded in 1970 by Japanese designer Kenzo Takada and owned by parent company LVMH.[2]
History
[edit]Kenzo Takada, 1970–1998
[edit]Kenzo Takada was born in Japan and moved to Paris in 1964 to start his fashion career.[3] He then became known for using Asian influenced style with the construction of European fashion. He started with a 'Jungle Jap' boutique located at Galerie Vivienne and decorated in jungle inspired interior. He began with handmade women's clothing; reportedly, he made his first collection with $200 worth of fabrics bought at a large discount house in Montmartre.[4] The brand became Kenzo after a fashion show in New York in 1976, as the American market considered 'Jungle Jap' too pejorative.[5]
In 1983, Kenzo started designing men and then kids and home collections in 1987, followed by fragrances in 1988.[5]
In 1993, luxury-products maker LVMH acquired Kenzo from SEBP and Financière Truffaut for about $80 million.[6] From 1995, Kenzo also produced Kenzo Studio, a line was produced through a licensing agreement with the Bonaventure Group. While Kenzo developed the line's fashion direction, Studio was sold only in the U.S. and Kenzo retail stores in China.[7]
Later years
[edit]From 1999 until 2003, Gilles Rosier and Roy Krejberg designed the women's and men's lines, respectively.[8]
From 2006 until 2008, over 100 of Kenzo's stores worldwide were refurbished.[9]
From 2008 until 2011, Antonio Marras served as Kenzo's creative director, overseeing the brand in its entirety.[9][10] By 2011, Kenzo barely broke even, with annual sales estimated at 150 million euros ($197.4 million).[11][12]
In 2011, Carole Lim and Humberto Leon of Opening Ceremony were appointed co-creative directors.[13] The pair was credited with revitalizing the Kenzo brand and making it appeal to a younger customer, as well as re-defining and expanding the role of a fashion creative director to encompass all elements of creative work at a brand, not just designing the garments.[14]
By 2017, Kenzo built the accessories and shoe business to almost 30 percent of revenues.[15] Lim and Leon exited Kenzo in 2019.[16] Also in 2019, Kenzo ended its distribution agreement with I.T to take back control of its 35 stores in China via a joint venture with the same partner.[17]
Under the creative direction of Felipe Oliveira Baptista from 2019 to 2021, Kenzo launched a line of men's and women's sportswear, titled Kenzo Sport.[18] In April 2021, Kenzo said it would part ways with Oliveira Baptista by the end of his term in June.[19]
In September 2021, Kenzo appointed Nigo of A Bathing Ape as their new artistic director.[20][21][22]
Locations
[edit]Kenzo has expanded rapidly in the time since its first American store has opened, as of June 2021 it now operates 6 locations in the US:
- Wynn Las Vegas-3131 Las Vegas Blvd
- New York City The Shops & Restaurants at Hudson Yards-20 Hudson Yards
- SoHo, Manhattan-107 Grand Street
- Beverly Center-8500 Beverly Blvd
- Cabazon-48400 Seminole Dr
- Woodbury Commons (New York) [23][24]
In the early 2000s, Kenzo pulled out of the American market, closing its flagship stores in Los Angeles (2002) and New York (2003).[25] In June 2020, the brand unveiled a new American flagship store in SoHo, Manhattan.[26][27]
Additionally it has nearly 145 stores worldwide primarily concentrated in Southeast Asia, Japan and Europe.[24]
Role in popular culture
[edit]The character Kenzo Harper in the BBC sitcom My Family is named after the fashion brand. In 2012, designers Humberto Leon and Carol Lim unveiled a knitted sweater with a tiger graphic on it for Kenzo's Fall 2012 collection.[28][29] Leon wanted to make a sweatshirt version of the sweater for him to wear.[30][31] Despite initial resistance from Kenzo's design team,[32][33] the tiger sweatshirts became extremely popular, with the initial run of sweatshirts selling out within hours at Kenzo's Paris location.[32] Since 2011, the tiger shirt and clothing designed by Leon and Lim[34][35] has been worn by celebrities and fashion bloggers including Jay Z, Kevin Hart, Beyoncé, Zooey Deschanel, Swizz Beatz, Selena Gomez, Spike Jonze, Joan Smalls, Lorde, NorthernSound and Rihanna.[citation needed]
Collaborations
[edit]In 2016, Kenzo announced its collaboration with H&M. Kenzo X H&M collection was released on November 3, 2016.[36] The fashion house also collaborates with Inglot Cosmetics company, which manufactures make-up products.[37] On March 21, 2018, Kenzo revealed Britney Spears as the face of its new 'La Collection Memento No. 2' campaign.[38] The collaboration, marketed as #KenzoLovesBritney, features a variety of ready-to-wear nostalgic denim pieces for men and women.[39]
Campaigns
[edit]Kenzo has been working with several high-profile photographers for its advertisement campaigns, including Jean-Baptiste Mondino (1996–1999),[40] David LaChapelle (2019)[41] and Keizō Kitajima (2024).[42]
For the Fall 2014 collection, Kenzo collaborated with filmmaker David Lynch, who mixed the soundtrack for the show and provided a large sculpture.[43]
For the Fall and Winter 2016 collection, Kenzo produced the campaign film The Realest Real starring Laura Harrier, Mahershala Ali, Natasha Lyonne, and Rowan Blanchard, and directed by Carrie Brownstein.[44][45] Also in 2016, Sean Baker (The Florida Project, Red Rocket) directed a short film starring model Abbey Lee called Snowbird for Kenzo SS16.[46]
In 2023, Kenzo selected Vernon of South Korean boy band Seventeen as the brand's first global ambassador.[47]
Designers
[edit]- Kenzo Takada, 1970–2020[2]
- Gilles Rosier, 2000–2004[2]
- Antonio Marras, 2004–2011[2]
- Humberto Leon and Carol Lim, 2012–2019[2]
- Felipe Oliveira Baptista, 2019–2021[48][2]
- Nigo, 2021–present[20]
References
[edit]- ^ "KENZO SA: Private Company Information - Businessweek". Businessweek.com. Archived from the original on October 24, 2012. Retrieved September 12, 2013.
- ^ a b c d e f "Kenzo". The Cut. Archived from the original on April 18, 2013.
- ^ "Kenzo Takada". British Vogue. March 26, 2012. Retrieved February 25, 2022.
- ^ Hebe Dorsey (November 14, 1976), Fashion: Kenzo Grows Up New York Times.
- ^ a b Grace Cook (February 1, 2019), Kenzo Takada — the journey from ‘Jungle Jap’ to Kenzo Archived February 25, 2020, at the Wayback Machine Financial Times.
- ^ LVMH buys Kenzo apparel maker Archived June 30, 2020, at the Wayback Machine United Press International, August 2, 1993.
- ^ Janet Ozzard (September 18, 1995), Kenzo Store Aims To Build U.S. Presence Women's Wear Daily.
- ^ Suzy Menkes (September 18, 1995), Gilles Rosier: On to Kenzo International Herald Tribune.
- ^ a b Jessica Bumpus (December 8, 2008), The Marras Touch Vogue.
- ^ Belinda White (July 12, 2011), Kenzo gets a new design team amid rumours Antonio Marras is headed for Dior The Daily Telegraph.
- ^ Matthieu Protard and Astrid Wendlandt (May 21, 2010), LVMH says has no plans to sell Kenzo Archived June 30, 2020, at the Wayback Machine Reuters.
- ^ Pascale Denis (January 5, 2011), LVMH names new head of Kenzo Archived June 29, 2020, at the Wayback Machine Reuters.
- ^ King, Joyann (July 12, 2011). "Humberto Leon and Carol Lim Appointed Creative Directors at Kenzo". Harper's BAZAAR. Retrieved November 9, 2023.
- ^ Suhrawardi, Rebecca (March 29, 2018). "Kenzo: How Carol Lim and Humberto Leon Are Setting The Mark for LVMH Brands". Forbes. Retrieved November 9, 2023.
- ^ Kenzo Plots Global Expansion Under New CEO Archived June 30, 2020, at the Wayback Machine Women's Wear Daily, September 9, 2017.
- ^ McCall, Tyler (June 14, 2019). "Carol Lim and Humberto Leon Exit Kenzo After 8 Years". Fashionista. Retrieved November 9, 2023.
- ^ Joelle Diderich (June 14, 2019), EXCLUSIVE: Kenzo Parts Ways With Creative Directors Humberto Leon and Carol Lim Archived May 31, 2020, at the Wayback Machine Women's Wear Daily.
- ^ Emily Mercer (August 28, 2020), Exclusive: Kenzo Introduces Kenzo Sport Line Women's Wear Daily.
- ^ Miles Socha (April 26, 2021), Kenzo to Bid Adieu to Felipe Oliveira Baptista Women's Wear Daily.
- ^ a b Miles Socha (September 15, 2021), Exclusive: Kenzo Picks Streetwear Guru Nigo as Its Next Designer Women's Wear Daily.
- ^ Teen, Vanity (January 23, 2022). "Paris Fashion Week Men FW22 Day 6: Kenzo, Wales Bonner, Sacai Vanity Teen 虚荣青年 Lifestyle & New Faces Magazine". www.vanityteen.com. Retrieved February 25, 2022.
- ^ Testa, Jessica (September 15, 2021). "A Hypebeast Comes to the Luxury House". The New York Times. ISSN 0362-4331. Retrieved February 25, 2022.
- ^ "News - About The Brand | KENZO". www.kenzo.com.
- ^ a b "Kenzo Stores | Kenzo.com | KENZO". www.kenzo.com.
- ^ Miles Socha (1 March 2004), Turning a New Leaf at Kenzo Women's Wear Daily.
- ^ Robinson, Roxanne (June 26, 2020). "Kenzo's New Soho Flagship: A Muted Opening In A Still-Recovering New York City". Forbes. Archived from the original on June 29, 2020. Retrieved July 1, 2020.
- ^ Wightman-Stone, Danielle (June 30, 2020). "Kenzo unveils first boutique designed by Felipe Oliveira Baptista". fashionunited.uk. Archived from the original on July 3, 2020. Retrieved July 1, 2020.
- ^ Tashjian, Rachel (June 14, 2019). "A Requiem for the Kenzo Tiger Sweater". GQ. Archived from the original on June 29, 2020. Retrieved June 29, 2020.
- ^ Bumpus, Jessica (March 4, 2012). "Kenzo Autumn/Winter 2012 Ready-To-Wear". British Vogue. Retrieved June 29, 2020.[permanent dead link]
- ^ Pinson, Laurel (November 21, 2012). "Anatomy of a Fad: How Kenzo's Tiger Sweater Sold Out in Two Days". StyleCaster. Archived from the original on July 1, 2020. Retrieved June 29, 2020.
- ^ Alexander, Ella (September 11, 2013). "How Long Would You Wait For A Kenzo Tiger Jumper?". British Vogue. Archived from the original on June 29, 2020. Retrieved June 29, 2020.
- ^ a b Mdudu, Naomi (March 11, 2014). "Kenzo: It began with a simple sweater…". Metro. Archived from the original on July 1, 2020. Retrieved June 29, 2020.
- ^ Bagley, Christopher (March 19, 2015). "Humberto Leon and Carol Lim Talk Style With Takada Kenzo". W Magazine. Archived from the original on July 2, 2020. Retrieved June 29, 2020.
- ^ "Kenzo in Dubai". Mall of the Emirates. Archived from the original on July 21, 2019. Retrieved July 21, 2019.
- ^ "About : Opening Ceremony". Opening Ceremony. Archived from the original on July 21, 2019. Retrieved July 21, 2019.
- ^ Jensen, Nanna Bachmand (June 12, 2016). "Kenzo X H&M | Fashion News". Ikon London Magazine. Archived from the original on July 21, 2019. Retrieved July 21, 2019.
- ^ "About Inglot". inglotcosmetics.com. Archived from the original on August 6, 2019. Retrieved July 21, 2019.
- ^ Bobb, Brooke (March 20, 2018). "Britney Spears On Her Kenzo Campaign And How She Defines Mum Fashion". British Vogue. Archived from the original on July 21, 2019. Retrieved July 21, 2019.
- ^ Jensen, Erin (March 20, 2018). "Kenzo is getting a 'Piece of' Britney Spears, the face of its La Collection Memento No. 2". USA Today. Archived from the original on June 5, 2019. Retrieved July 21, 2019.
- ^ Samantha Conti, Katherine Weisman, Melissa Drier and James Fallon (7 August 1996), Harbingers of Spring Women's Wear Daily.
- ^ Jean E. Palmieri (7 January 2019), Kenzo Taps David LaChapelle to Shoot Spring Campaign Women's Wear Daily.
- ^ Miles Socha (19 February 2024), EXCLUSIVE: Nigo Picks Iconic Paris Spots for Kenzo’s Latest Campaign Women's Wear Daily.
- ^ Phelps, Nicole (March 2, 2014). "Fall 2014 Ready-to-Wear: Kenzo". Style.com. Archived from the original on March 6, 2014. Retrieved July 21, 2019.
- ^ "The Realest Real - Autumn Winter 2016 Collection | KENZO". Kenzo. November 7, 2016. Archived from the original on November 22, 2019. Retrieved April 18, 2020.
- ^ Simpson, Ashley W. (September 14, 2016). "Kenzo Premieres Their Latest Campaign Film, The Realest Real". Vogue. Archived from the original on June 28, 2019. Retrieved April 18, 2020.
- ^ Hustle, Indie Film (December 7, 2021). "Sean Baker's iPhone Short Film: Snowbird - Indie Film Hustle". Indie Film Hustle®. Retrieved December 10, 2021.
- ^ "SEVENTEEN's Vernon is Kenzo's first global brand ambassador". NME. June 23, 2023. Retrieved June 23, 2023.
- ^ Klein, Arnaud; Courtois, Marie (July 1, 2019). "Felipe Oliveira Baptista quitte la direction artistique de Kenzo". Vogue (in French). Archived from the original on January 24, 2022. Retrieved September 28, 2022.
External links
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